Asparagus & caramelized red onion pesto

Now that Nina grabs her own snacks and has been put in charge of mise en place for dinner prep, things get pushed to the inner depths of our refrigerator pretty often. Such was the case for this asparagus I picked up at the farmers’ market a couple of weeks ago. It had been carefully wrapped and was inhabiting the coldest corner of the crisper, which meant it had wilted, but not yet gone off.

Capellini was already on the menu, but there was only enough red sauce to dress Nina’s bowl of pasta and I’d been contemplating a raw kale and pumpkin seed pesto.  I decided to save my kale for a salad and set to work making a rather different kind of green pesto instead.

I went out to the kitchen garden and, upon realizing that I’d forgotten to plant shallots this season, settled for a couple of Italian red torpedo onions.  They worked out quite well, but I think an equivalent amount of sliced shallots or your traditional red globe onion would be fine, too.

Asparagus & caramelized red onion pesto

1 large handful (25-30) thin asparagus spears
2 red torpedo onions
2 tsp olive oil
2-3 T nutritional yeast, to taste
1-2 tsp lemon zest, to taste
large pinch of coarse salt
pasta water to thin, if needed

Pre-pesto ingredient prep: Snap off the woody ends from your asparagus stalks. Thinly slice your onions; there should be enough to loosely pile into a 1/3 measuring cup. If using a red globe onion, cut a few thin-as-possible half moon slices, then cut into small strips about 1/4 inch long. Set up your steamer, pasta pot (filled with liberally salted water), and small cast iron or nonstick skillet for the onions.

Stovetop multi-tasking: Steam asparagus until fork tender. While the asparagus is steaming, put a teaspoon or two of olive oil into a small skillet over med/high heat. Saute the onion until it begins to caramelize, then remove from heat and transfer to your food processor. When the onion and asparagus have finished cooking, begin heating your pasta water.

Make the pesto: Cut the asparagus into 1-inch pieces and add to the food processor. Pulse a few times until the mixture is almost pureed. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the remaining ingredients. If you need additional liquid, add some of the pasta water, a tablespoon at a time. Season to taste with salt and additional lemon zest, if needed.

The best part: Drain your pasta, reserving about a quarter cup of the cooking water. Add the pesto and toss to coat, using some of the reserved water if needed. Season with cracked pepper and coarse salt at the table.

Notes

• Thin asparagus spears are preferable, as they are less fibrous. If you use thick stalks, you’ll need to peel them before steaming.
• This dish tastes equally well hot, at room temperature, and cold, especially as a midnight (or 5 a.m. pre-run) snack.